4/14/10 Field Study: Copenhagen Walking Tour and Danish Architecture Centre

Reflecting upon the group walking tour, now map your own route through your favorite part of the city with what you consider to be the best ‘civic design’ attributes. In short, design a map that marks a preferred route which point out the key spots and areas you believe embody the theme best. Include a brief description of what you understand this ‘theme’ to mean, and also provide individual descriptions/briefs of each of the spots/areas you have noted on the map.

Trying to describe to a friend why I liked Copenhagen, I found myself repeatedly using the world 'livability'. Although the word seems straightforward, understanding why some cities are able to achieve urban livability while others cannot often seems much less explicit. But by taking a close look at what is inviting and exciting about Copenhagen, it seems that a key ingredient is creating intimate spaces in public environments. These 'urban living rooms,' spaces that a demarcate private areas in the midst of fast paced downtown areas, inspire a feeling of personal identification with the city and invite inhabitants to slow down and enjoy the beautiful details of Copenhagen. Such private spaces, in addition to the careful design Copenhagen employs to ensure that the city is both functional and aesthetic from details as small as the man hole covers and as large as the street plans are what makes it such a livable city. Here are a few examples of spots not to miss when walking (or biking!) Copenhagen:

Your Walking Tour Map, Thanks to Google Maps

Map Key: (A) Nyhavn; (B) Kongens Nytorv; (C) Pistolstræde; (D) Amagertorv; (E) Caritasbrønden Fountain at Gammel Torv; (F)
Skydebanehaven Park

Nyhavn
Although this street is wide and open, overlooking the water, the colorful buildings, small cafes, and ample outdoor seating makes the area one of the most iconic and enjoyable spots in all of Copenhagen. The combination of lively cafes and young people lounging outdoors with drink in hand, juxtaposed with buildings dating back to the 18th century is a perfect example of how this old world city has captured a young, fresh urban atmosphere.

Nyhavn

Pistolstræde
From Nyhavn, walk around to Kongens Nytorv, noticing the successful mix of commercial and cultural buildings and then turn onto Østergade (Strøget), noticing the detail in the sidewalk at the beginning of the street - three bronze towers symbolizing the city inlayed into the paving stones. Just one example of the aesthetic attention to detail that makes Copenhagen such an exciting urban design case study. Make a right onto Ny Østergade and then a left onto a tiny alleyway called Pistolstræde. The alleyway opens up to a courtyard that gives the palpable feling of private space although it is simply a niche of small shops. With trees strung with lights and wide steeps to sit on, Pistolstræde is the perfect location to stop and reflect, eat your lunch in peace, or simply take as a tangent on your walk home. The beautiful spot is especially remarkable when one considers its past. The area was the city's previous Red Light District, full of seedy businesses and unkept buildings. When the area transitioned, this tight, non-corming cluster of buildings (and the space it encapsulated) could have been destroyed. Instead, it was not only kept but converted into a beautiful urban refuge.

Inside Pistolstræde
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Strøget & Amagertorv
After wandering through Pistolstræde, you'll find yourself back on Østergade (Strøget), the walking street. Lined with high quality shops and dotted with street performers and the occasional street vendor, Strøget resembles many other urban shopping districts, except for one notable difference: there are no cars allowed. Pedestrians move freely, creating equal access to both sides of the street. Perhaps the showcase of the walking street is Amagertorv, an unconventional square. It is worth mentioning not only because of it's urban carpet, artistically designed paving stones that attracts the eye (see post 4/13/10) but also because of it's unusual shape. Adjacent to Strøget, the square is anything but symmetrical or rectangular, creating a feeling of freedom and excitement but then at it's south end, it's layout becomes structured and demarcated by flagstone pavers. It's southern tip boasts a large bronze statue and overlooks the institutional sector of Copenhagen. Therefore, as the lack of symmetry at the north corner of Amagertorv reflects the bustling commercial atmosphere of Strøget, the contained and restrained southern end refers to the stateliness of the Parliament buildings that it faces.

Caritasbrønden Fountain at Gammel Torv
Walking farther down Strøget will bring you to another public square, this one with a large, guilt fountain. As a meeting place and a site for bike parking, as well as home to a couple street venders, the square is lively but it's relatively smaller scale makes it cozy. Even in colder weather, you will see people sitting around eating their lunches. Although there are few benches, the fountain itself, as well as a platform left from times of public executions serves as perfect spots for sitting.

Caritasbrønden Fountain at Gammel Torv
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Skydebanehaven Park
This final part of the journey takes a bit longer to reach but take the opportunity to observe Copenhagen's smaller details. Notice as patters in the cobblestones change depending on the street your on. Consider the functional and yet aesthetic bus shelters with their corresponding bus signs that not only visibly display the bus numbers that stop there but are also designed as interlocking pieces so that if another bus route picks up that stop, another number can be added without needing to construct an entirely new sign. Quickly look at the city lights, trash cans, and benches, all of which are functional, streamlined, and blend into the urban environment. Your route will take you to the end of Strøget, bringing you to Radhusplasden. Crossing the square will put you on Vesterbrogade which you will walk on until you take a left onto Reventlowsgale. Notice København H, the city's main train station on your left. Take a right onto Istedgade, the heart of Copenhagen's Red Light District. As you walk down this (in)famous street pay careful attention, because you are looking for hidden gem. After several block, on your right hand side, you will see a break in the buildings and a wall that almost looks like a fortress opening. Your curiosity will bring you into a secret garden of sorts. Behind the fortress wall is a public park, equipped with a fabulous children's play ground and plenty of open space to enjoy the outdoors. As beautiful as the park is, its charm comes from it the fact that it is a diamond in the rough Vesterbro neighborhood. Because you won't find Skydebanehaven unless you're looking for it, the spot feels like a secret, reserved only for those who know about it. It is a perfect example of how a public space can be turned into a place of community identification.

Fortress entrance of Skydebanehaven Park